My Family’s Fried Chicken Secret: A Real Insider’s Guide to Busan
My Family’s Fried Chicken Secret: A Real Insider’s Guide to Busan
I must have been about ten years old. My family had spread our mat on Gwangalli Beach, not for sunbathing, but for dinner. The sun had set, and the sky was a deep indigo. My dad made a quick phone call, and twenty minutes later, a delivery driver on a scooter zipped right up to the edge of the sand and handed us a steaming box of crispy fried chicken and a plastic bag of beer and sodas. I’ll never forget sitting there, munching on a drumstick, as the Gwangan Bridge suddenly lit up in a dazzling rainbow of colours.
That’s the real Busan. It’s not about following a checklist; it’s about experiencing these small, magical moments of local life. Forget the crowded tourist spots. Let me show you my family’s Busan.
👎 The Haeundae Tourist Trap (and Where Locals Actually Go)
Every guidebook puts Haeundae Beach at the top of the list. For anyone seeking a relaxing day, it’s a trap. In summer, it’s a literal “human soup,” so crowded you can barely see the sand. The restaurants are overpriced, and the vibe is more international tourist resort than Korean beach.
The Insider Alternative: When my friends in Busan want a beach day, they go to Songjeong Beach. It’s just one stop further on the train line, but it’s a world away. The vibe is laid-back and local, popular with surfing beginners. The sand is finer, the waves are gentler (perfect for families), and it’s lined with charming, independent cafes where you can actually relax. It’s the perfect antidote to the Haeundae madness.
🤫 My Hyper-Local Busan Secrets
These are the experiences that will make you feel like you’ve truly discovered the city’s soul.
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Insider Tip #1: The Ultimate Seafood Experience. Don’t just eat at a seafood restaurant. Go to the Millak Raw Fish Market building next to Gwangalli Beach. Here’s the step-by-step local’s guide:
- Go to the first floor and pick out your live fish from one of the many vendors. Have fun haggling!
- Pay the vendor, and they will prep the fish for you.
- Take your tray of fish upstairs to one of the chojangjib (초장집). These are basic restaurants that charge a small “table setting fee” per person.
- They will serve your fish as fresh sashimi (hoe / 회). When you’re done, they’ll take the leftover bones and head to make a bubbling, spicy stew called maeun-tang (매운탕). It’s an incredible two-course meal and the most authentic way to eat seafood in Busan.
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Insider Tip #2: The Golden Hour Temple Visit. Everyone visits the stunning seaside Haedong Yonggungsa Temple. Most people go mid-day when the tour buses are there, and it’s chaos. The secret is to go at sunset on a weekday. The tour buses will have departed, and the crowds thin out dramatically. You’ll get to experience the serene magic of hearing the monks’ evening chanting echo across the cliffs as the setting sun paints the sky over the East Sea.
🍜 More Than Just Seafood: A True Busan Meal
While the seafood is legendary, the one dish you absolutely must try is milmyeon (밀면), a chewy wheat noodle served in a chilled, tangy broth. It was invented by North Korean refugees in Busan during the Korean War who missed their hometown cold noodles (naengmyeon) but could only get wheat flour from US aid supplies. It’s a dish born from history and hardship, and it’s the perfect, refreshing meal on a hot Busan day. You’ll find the best spots in the Seomyeon and Nampo-dong areas.
❌ Common Rookie Mistakes to Avoid in Busan
- Underestimating the City’s Size. Busan is massive and very spread out. Traveling from the west side (like Nampo-dong) to the east side (Haeundae) can take over an hour on the subway. Plan your days by neighbourhood to avoid wasting time.
- Only Using the Subway. The subway is great, but for many key attractions like Gamcheon Culture Village or Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, the local city buses are far more direct and convenient. Use Naver Maps to check the best bus routes.
- Not Having Cash. While Korea is a very card-friendly country, you’ll still need cash. Traditional markets (like the fish market), small street food stalls, and underground shopping centres often prefer or only accept cash. Always have some won on you.
Busan’s real charm isn’t found in a brochure. It’s in the taste of that spicy maeun-tang, the sound of the waves at a quiet beach, and the magic of watching a bridge light up the night sky with a piece of fried chicken in your hand. Welcome to my Busan.
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