My Grandfather’s Bookstore: A Real Insider’s Guide to Seochon, Seoul’s Most Charming Village
My Grandfather’s Bookstore: A Real Insider’s Guide to Seochon, Seoul’s Most Charming Village
I remember the smell of old paper and dust motes dancing in the afternoon light. My grandfather would take my hand and lead me through the winding alleys of Seochon to a tiny, crooked hanok. It was a secondhand bookstore called Daeo, the oldest in Seoul. He’d let me pick out a children’s book, and the owner, a kind old woman, would smile as he paid. Today, that bookstore is a famous cafe, but for me, it’s a memory that holds the entire spirit of Seochon: a place of quiet history, personal stories, and timeless charm, hidden just beyond the palace walls.
This is not a neighbourhood you “see”; it’s a neighbourhood you feel. Let me show you the Seochon I grew up with.
🤫 The Bukchon Tourist Trap (and Why Seochon is Better)
Every tourist is told they must visit Bukchon Hanok Village. For anyone seeking an authentic experience, it has become a trap. It’s a beautiful but exhausting “selfie-stick hell,” packed with massive tour groups on steep, hilly streets. It feels less like a neighbourhood and more like a museum backdrop.
The Insider Alternative: Seochon is everything Bukchon is not. It’s the superior choice for a real hanok neighbourhood experience. Here’s why:
- It’s a living village: Seochon is a genuine residential area where people live, work, and shop. You’ll find bakeries, butcher shops, and art galleries, not just souvenir stalls.
- It’s flat and walkable: Unlike Bukchon’s relentless hills, Seochon’s gentle, winding alleys are perfect for a leisurely stroll, making it ideal for families with strollers or anyone who prefers a relaxed pace.
- It’s about discovery: The joy of Seochon is in its quiet, creative, and slightly quirky atmosphere, not just in taking one specific photo.
🍱 How to Really Do Tongin Market
The dosirak (lunchbox) cafe at Tongin Market is a fantastic experience, but most tourists make the same mistake. They fill their trays with the fried, oily foods near the main entrance.
- Insider Tip #1: The Banchan Balance. The real local move is to walk deeper into the market. Skip the long lines for the famous fried tteokbokki and instead, fill at least half of your lunchbox tray with the incredible variety of fresh, home-style banchan (side dishes). Look for vendors selling seasoned vegetables (namul), braised tofu, and stir-fried mushrooms. This is what a real Korean home-cooked meal tastes like—a healthy and delicious balance of flavours.
🤫 My Family’s Seochon Secrets
These are the experiences that go beyond the main walking path.
- Insider Tip #2: The Secret Rooftop View. For the best photo of Seochon, you need to go up. You don’t need to climb a mountain. Follow the alleys past Tongin Market towards Suseong-dong Valley. From there, a paved path leads up the base of Inwangsan Mountain. A short, 15-minute walk will take you to a viewpoint that offers a breathtaking, secret panorama looking down over the traditional grey-tiled hanok roofs, with the modern skyscrapers of downtown Seoul rising in the distance.
- Visit My Grandfather’s Bookstore: You must stop by Daeo Bookstore. It’s no longer a working bookshop but has been preserved as a cafe. For a small fee, you can enter the original part of the building, a tiny, time-capsule of a room filled with books and memories. It’s the heart of old Seochon.
❌ Common Rookie Mistakes to Avoid in Seochon
- Being Loud. This is the number one mistake. This is a real residential neighbourhood. People are trying to live, work, and sleep here. Keep your voices low and be respectful, especially in the narrow alleys. You are a guest in their home.
- Only Staying on the Main Street. The main road has some lovely shops, but the real magic of Seochon is in the labyrinth of tiny, unnamed alleys that branch off from it. Be brave, turn down a random alley, and see where it takes you.
- Missing the Artistic History. Seochon was home to many of Korea’s most famous artists and writers, including the poet Yi Sang. Look for small plaques on the walls of old houses or visit the small literary museums to get a sense of the creative spirit that still defines the neighbourhood.
Seochon is a place to slow down. It’s a reminder that in a city that’s always rushing forward, there are still quiet corners where the past is present. I hope you’ll wander its alleys and find your own special place, just like my grandfather’s bookstore.
#ExploringSechonVillage #GyeongbokgungPalace #hanok #slowtravel #hiddengems #SeoulWalkingTour #quietneighborhoods
